Visiting Kagoshima Castle, the Fierce Battlefield of the Seinan War
The ruins of Kagoshima Castle, also known as Tsurumaru Castle, spread at the base of Mount Shiroyama in central Kagoshima City. Built as the residence of the Shimazu clan, lords of the Satsuma Domain, it is also known as one of the fiercest battlefields of the Seinan War. Countless bullet and shell marks remain on its stone walls.
In this article, we report on the experience of actually walking through the Kagoshima Castle Ruins. You’ll find photos of the restored Goromon Gate, the Reimeikan Museum, and the remains of the garden, each preserving visible traces of history.
If you’d like to learn more about the history and highlights of Kagoshima Castle, please also check the following article.
Standing proudly at the front of the ruins, the “Goromon Gate” serves as a symbol of Kagoshima Castle.
Measuring about 20 meters in both height and width, the imposing wooden gate has been faithfully reconstructed to evoke the dignity of the castle’s original main entrance.
The Goromon Gate was lost in a fire in 1873 and remained in ruins for nearly 150 years. It was finally reconstructed in 2020, welcoming visitors today as a new symbol of the Kagoshima Castle Ruins.
Traces of the Seinan War: Thousands of Bullet Scars
After passing through the Goromon Gate, you’ll find countless holes carved into the stone walls on the left-hand side. These are the marks left by bullets and shells fired during the Seinan War of 1877. It was here that the Satsuma forces, entrenched on Mount Shiroyama, and the government troops engaged in intense combat.
The concentration of marks along the seams and corners of the walls, the chipped stones, and the shallow indentations all testify to the ferocity of battle. The direction and density of the impacts suggest that the site was attacked from multiple angles, silently telling the story of the fierce fight.
The moss-covered stones and weathered surfaces convey how the traces of conflict have survived for more than a century. Next to large cracks, pin-sized bullet marks remain scattered across the surface, evoking the image of an intense gunfight.
Gazing upon these marks etched in stone, one can almost feel the memories of battle transcend time.
Some of these scars are also believed to have been made by gunfire during World War II.
Reimeikan Museum
Beyond the Goromon Gate, following the path along the bullet-scarred walls, you’ll reach the Kagoshima Prefectural Historical Museum “Reimeikan.” Built on the site of the castle’s former main keep, the museum offers a wide-ranging introduction to the history and culture of Satsuma.
Shuuchin Houkohi Monument
Beside the Reimeikan stands an impressive stone monument called the “Shuuchin Houkohi.”
This monument was erected by the 25th lord of the Satsuma Domain, Shimazu Shigehide, whose deep intellectual curiosity and cultural pursuits are reflected in its inscription. Shigehide was the great-grandfather of Shimazu Nariakira, enshrined at Terukuni Shrine, and was active during the late 18th century.
The inscription begins with the creation of heaven and earth and expresses a desire to understand the laws of nature. Shigehide devoted himself to the study of medicinal herbs, the breeding of animals and plants, and the collection of minerals and ceramics—efforts that show his fascination with natural science.
He also lamented the dispersal of his collected treasures over the years, and thus established a treasure house named “Shuuchin Houko” in Ebara County (now Takanawa, Tokyo) to preserve them. His wish for these cultural assets to be protected and passed down to future generations a hundred years later is carved into the stone.
Encountering this monument in Kagoshima evokes the image of a feudal lord who lived a life of study and curiosity. It quietly testifies to the global perspective and culture of collection that had already taken root in Satsuma during the Edo period.
Statue of Tenshōin Atsuhime
Within the grounds of the Reimeikan stands a serene statue of Tenshōin Atsuhime, one of Satsuma’s most renowned women of the late Edo period.
Born into a branch family of the Shimazu clan, Atsuhime later became the wife of Tokugawa Iesada, the 13th shogun of the Tokugawa shogunate. After her husband’s death, she took the name “Tenshōin” and, during the turbulent years leading to the Meiji Restoration, worked tirelessly to protect both the Tokugawa family and the common people.
In 1868, when the imperial forces decided to attack Edo, Atsuhime negotiated with Saigō Takamori and others, playing a vital role in achieving the bloodless surrender of Edo Castle. Her calm judgment and dignified actions embody the spirit of the proud and steadfast Satsuma woman.
The statue, standing amidst the greenery of the Reimeikan grounds, conveys the grace and inner strength of a woman who lived through a time of great upheaval. When visiting, take a moment to look up at her figure and reflect on her remarkable life.
Reimeikan Garden and Tenoma Futatsuya
Behind the Reimeikan lies a tranquil garden enveloped in lush greenery. It’s a peaceful space where visitors can slow down and enjoy the calm atmosphere. Here, you’ll find “Miike Pond,” a reconstruction of the pond that once lay in the southeast of the castle’s inner bailey, as well as “Tenoma Futatsuya,” a relocated traditional Satsuma farmhouse that allows visitors to glimpse everyday life in the past.
Miike Pond was originally part of the garden created by the 18th head of the Shimazu family, Shimazu Iehisa, and was restored during the opening of the Reimeikan in the Showa period. Water flows gently between the stones, and the elegant “Kyukobashi” bridge spans the pond. The reflection of trees and stones on the surface creates a beautifully harmonious and soothing scene.
Beside the pond stands a thatched-roof farmhouse known as “Tenoma Futatsuya,” a fine example of the traditional homes found in the Satsuma region. It’s a valuable structure that vividly conveys the lifestyle of that era.
Inside the building remain features like the central hearth and exposed beams, while outside you’ll find a roofed well, preserving a glimpse of life from centuries past.
The Reimeikan Garden quietly preserves the memory of the era when Kagoshima Castle was still known as Tsurumaru Castle. In contrast to the grandeur of the Goromon Gate and stone walls, this peaceful retreat offers a sense of the Satsuma lifestyle closely connected to nature. When visiting the castle ruins, be sure to stroll through this tranquil back garden as well.
Site of the Tsurumaru Castle Second Bailey
To the west of the Reimeikan lies the former site of the “Tsurumaru Castle Second Bailey.” Today, the Kagoshima Prefectural Library stands here, continuing the site’s long legacy as a place of learning and culture.
During the Edo period, the Second Bailey was an essential administrative zone that housed offices and ceremonial halls supporting the domain’s government. Since the Meiji era, the site has evolved from educational facilities to its present role as a modern library—remaining a “center of knowledge” throughout history.
Together with the Reimeikan’s main keep site, the Second Bailey forms an important part of Kagoshima Castle’s historical layout. The signboards outside help visitors visualize the entire castle’s structure and the surrounding landscape of the past.
The Moat and Stone Walls of Kagoshima Castle
The moat of Kagoshima Castle, lined with darkened stones and mossy surfaces, exudes the quiet weight of centuries. Reflections of the Goromon Gate and Mount Shiroyama in the water evoke the castle’s long history.
The surrounding stone walls are precisely stacked from cut stones, maintaining their solid form even after centuries. Up close, the chisel marks visible on the joints reveal the meticulous craftsmanship of the castle builders.
Along the walkway in front of the Goromon Gate, you’ll find an exhibit introducing the various “stone masonry techniques” used in the castle’s construction. Actual stones are used to demonstrate methods such as “nunozumi” and “sangizumi,” allowing visitors to visually understand the techniques of the era.
Each display indicates where these masonry styles can be observed around the site, helping visitors better appreciate the stonework as they explore.
The Memory of War and Rebirth Preserved at Kagoshima Castle Ruins
Walking through the Goromon Gate, examining the bullet-scarred walls, exploring the Reimeikan exhibits, and strolling through the garden—all of these experiences reveal the deep passage of time embedded in Kagoshima Castle. The history of Satsuma still lives vividly here.
The stone walls bearing the marks of war are not just relics of the past but living evidence that continue to speak across generations. The majestic restored Goromon Gate and the Reimeikan’s wealth of knowledge and culture have breathed new life into these castle grounds.
Standing quietly within the ruins, one can feel the pride and dignity of a land that has endured both conflict and renewal.
When you visit Kagoshima, take time to walk these grounds and feel the atmosphere of history for yourself.