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Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace is like a “time machine” that transports us to the opulent architectural beauty and artistic heights of the Edo period. Completely restored in 2018, this structure holds immense cultural value, once designated as Japan’s first National Treasure, and continues to convey the grandeur of the Owari Tokugawa family and Japan’s traditional culture.
With lavish interiors adorned with gold leaf, intricate wall paintings, and historical significance, it overwhelms visitors and invites them into the Edo period.
In this article, we will introduce every charm of Nagoya Castle Honmaru Palace. From the grand entrance to the prestigious Omote Shoin and the most splendid Jorakuden, we will thoroughly explain the highlights and historical background of each room. Additionally, we will share practical tips for your visit to ensure a deeper and more enjoyable experience.
So, let’s embark on a journey into the world of Edo-period art and power together.
Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace, completely restored in 2018, is a lavishly ornate building. It is the climax of Nagoya Castle tourism, featuring interiors lavishly decorated with gold leaf and intricate wall paintings that overwhelm visitors.
The Honmaru Palace was built by Tokugawa Yoshinao, the grandson of Tokugawa Ieyasu, and flourished as the residence of the Owari Tokugawa family. It is a must-visit for history enthusiasts and those interested in traditional Japanese architecture and culture.
Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace was constructed for three main purposes:
The Honmaru Palace was not just a residence but a multi-purpose building that symbolized politics, diplomacy, and authority, making it extremely important for Edo-period daimyo.
The Honmaru Palace, once designated as Japan’s first National Treasure along with the main keep, was a culturally significant building. However, it was destroyed by air raids during the Pacific War in 1945. Using old blueprints and photographs as references, it was reconstructed, and in 2018, the beautiful Honmaru Palace was restored to its original glory. Now, you can see the magnificent architecture of the Edo period up close.
The fusuma (sliding doors) in Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace are adorned with beautiful paintings called “shōhekiga.”
Shōhekiga refers to large paintings drawn directly on the fusuma or walls. The shōhekiga in the Honmaru Palace feature lavish gold leaf backgrounds with delicate brushwork depicting flowers, birds, and landscapes. The sheer presence makes them seem almost alive.
These paintings not only decorated the rooms but also served to display the authority of the daimyo. Viewing the shōhekiga makes you feel like you are in an art museum from the Edo period.
When you visit the Honmaru Palace, be sure to pay attention to the different shōhekiga in each room. You’ll be amazed by the incredible skills of the artists from the Edo period.
The entrance of the Honmaru Palace is the first place to welcome visitors.
The decorations in the entrance were meticulously designed to convey the dignity and cultural refinement of the Owari Tokugawa family to visitors. The lavish gold-leaf sliding door paintings and intricate transom carvings are overwhelming in their grandeur.
The entrance is divided into the “First Room” and the “Second Room,” with visitors being shown to different rooms based on their status. High-ranking guests or those visiting for important matters were shown to the “First Room,” while general visitors or those with everyday matters were shown to the “Second Room.”
The ceiling of the First Room is made using a special technique called “ajiro ceiling,” which involves weaving thin bamboo strips. This ceiling is not only beautiful but also has the effect of suppressing sound reverberation.
The walls and fusuma are decorated with fierce tiger paintings. This was intended to impress visitors and convey the strength of the Owari Tokugawa family. Tigers symbolize courage and power, and their depiction inspired awe in those who saw them.
These shōhekiga, depicting bamboo groves and fierce tigers and leopards, are known as the “Bamboo Grove and Leopards.”
Additionally, the Second Room features restored wall paintings of the Important Cultural Property “Pine, Maple, and Birds.”
Visiting the restored entrance allows you to experience the tension and splendor of visiting a daimyo house in the Edo period. Be sure to gaze into the tiger’s eyes and admire the intricate ceiling work to fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of that time.
The Omote Shoin is one of the most important places in the Honmaru Palace. During the Edo period, it was called the “Hiroma,” where the Owari lord held official meetings.
The most prestigious part of the Omote Shoin is the “Upper Room” at the very back. It features decorations such as tokonoma (alcove) and shoin-style architecture, and the floor is raised by one step. This elevated area was the special space where the lord sat.
You can see the difference in elevation between the First Room and the Upper Room.
Incidentally, the Upper Room is where Tokugawa Yoshinao, the first lord of the Owari domain, sat. It is equipped with formal decorative features such as a tokonoma, a shoin desk, and a built-in shelf. The chodaigamae (alcove setup) is also luxurious.
Since the castle’s completion in 1615, the Upper Room has been used as the most important place for official audience with the lord. From the time of the first lord, Tokugawa Yoshinao, successive lords hosted important guests and conducted administration here.
Sagi-no-Roka is a special corridor in the Honmaru Palace. This corridor was built along with the important Jorakuden in 1634.
The characteristic of Sagi-no-Roka is the luxurious paintings covering the entire wall. Unlike ordinary corridors, the paintings extend up to the ceiling, catching the eye. This reflects the artistic style of the time.
Since the highest-ranking individuals, such as the shogun and the domain lord, passed through here to reach the Jorakuden, it is decorated in a luxurious manner.
Jorakuden is the most luxurious and prestigious building in the Honmaru Palace. It was specially built in 1634 for the visit of Tokugawa Iemitsu, the shogun at the time, on his way to Kyoto.
During the Edo period, it was also called “Onarishoin” or “Goshiraishoin” and served as a special place for entertaining the highest-ranking guests.
The highlight of Jorakuden is its astonishingly luxurious decorations. The ceiling is adorned with beautiful paintings, and the spaces between rooms feature vividly colored transom carvings.
Notably, the famous painter Kano Tanyu, who was 33 years old at the time, created wall paintings here. The “Emperor’s Mirror” series depicting ancient Chinese stories and the “Snowy Pine, Bamboo, and Bird” series are particularly praised.
Visiting Jorakuden allows you to feel like you’ve traveled back in time to the Edo period. Take your time to appreciate the paintings on the walls and ceiling, and immerse yourself in the skills and aesthetics of the people of the past.
Ume-no-Ma was a waiting room for high-ranking samurai of the Owari domain who were assigned the important task of entertaining the shogun. It served as a “holding room.”
Ume-no-Ma, while not flashy, has a simple design that enhances the ambiance of the shōhekiga, creating a very pleasant room.
This room played an essential role behind the scenes of the grand events. You can imagine the samurai waiting here nervously during the Edo period.
Pay attention to the decorations and layout of the room. They tell the story of the strict class system and ceremonies of the time.
Taimensho was where the lord of the Owari domain met with family and close vassals in a relaxed atmosphere or held banquets.
The Taimensho primarily consists of two rooms: the “Upper Room” and the “Next Room.” The walls and fusuma of these rooms are adorned with beautiful paintings depicting seasonal landscapes, famous Japanese locations, and scenes of people living there.
When you visit the Taimensho, take your time to observe the paintings on the walls and fusuma. The serene and calm atmosphere allows you to imagine the lifestyle of people in the Edo period and the landscapes they admired.
To visit Honmaru Palace, you need to register at the reception in front of the main keep. Admission is free. While there is no formal procedure, you will be guided by the staff and provided with some instructions before entering.
First, line up and wait for your turn.
Groups of about 10 people are admitted at a time. The staff provides a brief five-minute orientation and shows a video to explain the instructions.
The staff will inform you, “If you have a lot of baggage, there are free lockers inside.” So, if you have a lot of luggage, store it before your visit.
Take your time and enjoy the tour, but note that the corridors in the palace are not very wide, so be careful not to obstruct others.
After receiving instructions, you can enter the Honmaru Palace.
At the entrance, you will remove your shoes. Keep to the right side.
After removing your shoes, slippers are available. Although not mandatory, it is recommended to wear slippers. The corridor floors are wooden and can be quite cold in winter.
The floors are not soft either, so if you walk for a long time, you may get tired.
Immediately upon entering, there is a shoe locker where you can store your shoes.
Shoe lockers are free and can be locked.
There are also lockers next to the shoe lockers where you can store your belongings.
The lockers require a 100 yen deposit, which is returned when you unlock them, making them effectively free.
Proceeding from here, you will enter the entrance area. Enjoy your visit to the magnificent Honmaru Palace.
Visiting Nagoya Castle’s Honmaru Palace is like a journey through time. The luxurious interiors adorned with gold leaf, intricate wall paintings, and the palpable weight of history create an artistic and historical world that captivates the heart.
Starting from the entrance and moving through the Omote Shoin, Sagi-no-Roka, and Jorakuden, the sense of following in the footsteps of Edo-period leaders grows stronger. Understanding the meanings behind the decorations and structures of each room brings the aesthetics and values of that time to life.
The seasonal landscapes and animals depicted in the wall paintings continue to speak to us even after 400 years, reflecting the harmony with nature and the delicate aesthetics that have been cherished by the Japanese people for centuries.
After finishing your tour of the Honmaru Palace, you might feel a strange sensation upon returning to the modern hustle and bustle. It’s as if you’ve come back from a time slip. However, the lingering echoes of Edo-period beauty and history will remain in your heart.
Nagoya Castle Honmaru Palace is a special place where you can feel Japan’s culture and history with your own senses and touch the thoughts of our predecessors.
In addition, with barrier-free facilities, wheelchair users and those with small children can visit comfortably.
When you visit Nagoya Castle, be sure to also explore the Honmaru Palace. A unique experience of Japan’s cultural and historical essence awaits you.
