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On a map of Kyoto, a large square area stands out prominently amid the city’s neat grid layout. This is Nijo Castle, a historic site that served as a symbol of the Tokugawa Shogunate and a key political hub in Kyoto for over 400 years.
The castle was commissioned by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1603 and completed under the third shogun, Iemitsu. It functioned both as a residence for visiting shoguns and as a base for governing Kyoto. In 1867, the Ninomaru Palace within the castle was the site of the historic declaration of the return of political power to the emperor by Tokugawa Yoshinobu, marking the end of the Edo period after 260 years.
Now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, I spent two hours thoroughly exploring Nijo Castle, and in this article, I’ll share that experience with you.
For more detailed information about the highlights of Nijo Castle, check out the following article:
Read more about Highlights and Details of Nijo Castle
The best way to reach Nijo Castle from Kyoto Station is by bus.
Several Kyoto City Bus lines stop directly in front of the castle.
From Kyoto Station’s bus terminal, take Route 9 from platform B1, or Route 50 from platform B2.
Source: Kyoto Station Bus Stop Map - Budget Accommodations in Kyoto
Platform B1 (rear) and B2 (front)
Route 9 Kyoto City Bus at Platform B1
The ride takes about 15–20 minutes. Get off at Nijojo-mae Bus Stop.
From the bus stop, the castle entrance is right in front of you.
To enter Nijo Castle, you’ll need to buy an admission ticket.
Tickets are available at both the counter and vending machines.
After paying the entrance fee and getting your ticket, it’s time to enter Nijo Castle!
Nijo Castle covers a vast area.
You can view the official map on the castle’s website.
For this visit, I followed the official 2 - Hour Recommended Course.
This is the main gate of Nijo Castle, designated as an Important Cultural Property.
It’s an impressive entrance, full of dignified presence.
The main gates of Japanese castles were crucial points for welcoming important guests. That’s why the stone walls here, like at many castles, are beautifully crafted. The stonework at Higashi Otemon is especially artistic.
After passing through the gate, you’ll find the guardhouse and the visitor center. The guardhouse on the right was where samurai guards were stationed.
The visitor center on the left provides multilingual audio guides and pamphlets—a great place to gather information before exploring the castle.
This is the Southeast Watchtower.
Watchtowers were built at the four corners of the outer moat for surveillance and were typically used as armories. Most were lost in the 1788 Great Fire, and now only the Southeast and Southwest Watchtowers remain.
This watchtower, one of the two survivors, quietly stands at the corner between Higashi Otemon and Karamon gates.
Karamon is the entrance to Ninomaru Palace and is known for its extravagant decorations.
The golden decorations gleam with dazzling brilliance.
Aside from the gate itself, note the Sujibei (grooved earthen walls) on the adjoining Tsui-ji walls.
The walls extending from Karamon are called Tsui-ji. Sujibei is a decorative groove pattern traditionally used on imperial and noble residences to signify prestige. At Nijo Castle, the five-line pattern indicates the highest status.
Together, the ornate gate and prestigious wall emphasize the high rank of Nijo Castle.
Ninomaru Palace housed reception rooms and meeting halls, and it was the stage for Tokugawa Yoshinobu’s announcement of the return of political power.
Seeing the impressive gate and the massive roof of the guardhouse in person truly conveys the grandeur of the place.
Photography inside the palace is not allowed, but highlights include the main audience chamber where the power transition occurred and several elegant drawing rooms. It’s a must-see at Nijo Castle.
Before entering the Ninomaru Garden, you’ll find a large bell on display.
One bell was located inside Nijo Castle and the other at the Kyoto Shoshidai Residence to signal emergencies like fires.
The Kyoto Shoshidai Residence was an Edo-period administrative office responsible for overseeing the imperial court and managing Kyoto officials.
Where there is a palace, there is a garden. Ninomaru Garden is a beautifully serene space.
At the time of the power transition, the garden was reportedly in poor condition, but it has since been restored through multiple renovations.
The understated trees and the tranquil pond create a relaxing, calming atmosphere.
The view of Ninomaru Palace from the garden is also stunning. The harmony between the palace and the garden is quite soothing.
The garden as a whole gives off a very “quiet” impression.
I visited in the morning when it was relatively empty, making it the perfect time to enjoy this peaceful setting.
This is the Honmaru Yagura Gate, another Important Cultural Property.
To enter Honmaru Palace, you must cross one of two bridges: this eastern one (Honmaru Yagura Gate) or the western bridge. In times of emergency, the bridges were designed to be removed to prevent access.
Despite its defensive purpose, the presence of decorative giboshi finials suggests high status.
The gate may be small, but it has a strong and imposing presence.
This gate was the only one to survive the Great Fire of Tenmei in 1788, a catastrophic blaze that devastated Kyoto.
The Great Fire of Tenmei began in a vacant house and destroyed 37,000 homes, leaving 65,000 families homeless. Even the Imperial Palace, Nijo Castle, and the Higashi and Nishi Honganji temples were burned down.
Now, let’s pass through this gate into the inner citadel.
Though it surrounds the Honmaru Palace, this garden is modest and structured to form miniature scenic spots rather than one large composition.
Depending on your vantage point, the scenery changes—a hallmark of traditional Japanese gardens.
These are the remains of Nijo Castle’s main keep. The original five-story tower was destroyed by lightning in 1750.
There was debate in 2016 about reconstructing the keep, but the estimated cost of around 10 billion yen made headlines.
Climbing the ruins leads to an open plaza with a panoramic view of the castle grounds. It’s a great spot to take a break during your visit.
This is the West Bridge, the second access point to the Honmaru Palace, located opposite the Honmaru Yagura Gate.
The stonework before the bridge features beautifully crafted interlocking joints.
Having passed through Honmaru Palace, we’ve reached the far side of Nijo Castle from Higashi Otemon Gate.
Here you’ll find a row of earthen storehouses. Built in 1626, these were originally used to store grains. They are also designated as Important Cultural Properties.
The row of storehouses has a charming, historic feel.
The North Middle Gate was built around 1626 and is also an Important Cultural Property.
This gate served to block enemies from circling around to the West Bridge and entering the Honmaru area.
Built with defense in mind, its structure is robust and formidable.
The Kamo Seven Stones are seven famous types of stones quarried from the upper reaches of Kyoto’s Kamo River.
The arrangement here resembles a miniature dry landscape garden, offering a tasteful ambiance.
Seiryu-en Garden is split into two styles—one Japanese and one Western.
The west side features traditional Japanese design.
The east side features Western-style landscaping with a lawn.
Since I visited in late March, some cherry blossoms were blooming, adding seasonal beauty.
At the end of the route, near the eastern side of Ninomaru Garden, there’s a large rest area with street food stalls where you can enjoy snacks.
The top recommendation is matcha dango and matcha tea. A must-try Kyoto treat.
Exploring all of Nijo Castle can be quite tiring, but this tasty break at the end will refresh you.
To return to Kyoto Station, cross the street from the entrance of Nijo Castle (Higashi Otemon Gate). The bus stop is on the opposite side.
Take Route 9 to return to Kyoto Station.
If you want to check the Kyoto City Bus routes, the Subway & Bus Navi by the Kyoto Municipal Transportation Bureau is very helpful. It includes maps for buses and subways.
Built for shoguns and emperors, Nijo Castle stands apart from other castles with its fortified gates, opulent palaces, and intricately crafted stone walls.
As one of the few remaining castles that reflect Japan’s elegant aristocratic legacy, it continues to captivate visitors with its dignified presence. The two-hour tour flew by.
I highly recommend taking your time and walking through this majestic site.
