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Nestled at the entrance of the bamboo grove in Arashiyama lies a small yet sacred shrine—Nonomiya Shrine.
At first glance, it may seem like a modest shrine, but within its grounds lies a deep connection to Japan’s literary and historical past.
This is the place where Prince Genji and Lady Rokujō from The Tale of Genji had their heartbreaking farewell. It was also a purification site for imperial princesses serving at Ise Grand Shrine. Today, the sorrowful tales of the past have transformed Nonomiya Shrine into one of Kyoto’s most powerful matchmaking spots.
With its ancient moss garden, Japan’s oldest style of black torii gate, and a serene bamboo grove setting, visitors can step into both the world of Heian aristocracy and a modern-day spiritual site within just 10 minutes.
Located at the entrance of the famous Bamboo Forest Path, this shrine holds secrets of love and history waiting to be discovered. Let’s explore the hidden stories behind Nonomiya Shrine.
Nonomiya Shrine is a historical Shinto shrine located in the Arashiyama and Sagano area of Kyoto. Its structure is reminiscent of the shrine depicted in The Tale of Genji, making it a sacred site for literature lovers.
Image Source: New York Public Library
To understand the significance of Nonomiya Shrine in The Tale of Genji, one must first know about Nonomiya (野宮) itself.
A Nonomiya was a temporary purification site for imperial princesses known as Saiō (斎王), who were unmarried women of the royal family chosen to serve at Ise Grand Shrine on behalf of the emperor.
Before departing for Ise, the Saiō would spend a period of purification at a Nonomiya. These purification sites were temporary structures, built for each new Saiō and later dismantled after their departure.
However, even after their role ended, the places where these Nonomiya stood remained sacred. Over time, these locations continued to be venerated, and one such site evolved into the present-day Nonomiya Shrine.
Although the Saiō system was abolished in later centuries, Nonomiya Shrine continues to honor this heritage while also enshrining deities related to matchmaking and academic success.
Nonomiya Shrine appears in The Tale of Genji, specifically in Chapter 10: “Sakaki” (The Sacred Tree).
In this chapter, Lady Rokujō, a former lover of Prince Genji, arrives at Nonomiya to accompany her daughter, who has been chosen as the new Saiō for Ise Grand Shrine.
It is at Nonomiya that Lady Rokujō and Genji bid their final farewell. Though they were once deeply in love, Genji’s heart has moved on to another woman. Lady Rokujō, heartbroken, resolves to move forward as the mother of the new Saiō.
This scene is one of the most poignant and beautiful moments in The Tale of Genji.
Although Nonomiya Shrine was depicted as a site of sorrow in the Heian era, today, it is home to Nonomiya Daikokuten, a deity of matchmaking. It is now known as a powerful love shrine, attracting visitors seeking romance and relationship blessings.
Over 1000 years have passed since Lady Rokujō’s heartbreak, making Nonomiya one of the most powerful matchmaking spots in Japan.
Nonomiya Shrine is located at the starting point of Kyoto’s famous Bamboo Forest Path.
With just a 10-minute walk from Arashiyama’s main stations, it’s an easily accessible spot to visit alongside the bamboo grove.
The grounds of Nonomiya Shrine are quite compact, requiring only 5 to 10 minutes to explore fully. However, within this small space, visitors will find a wealth of historical and cultural beauty.
One of Nonomiya Shrine’s defining features is the Kuroki Torii, an ancient black wooden torii gate with bark still attached. This is one of the oldest torii styles in Japan, even mentioned in The Tale of Genji.
Standing before this gate, one can truly feel the presence of history. It is as if you are stepping into the world of The Tale of Genji.
Nonomiya Shrine is also home to a beautiful moss garden, where the contrast between the vivid red torii gates and the soft green moss creates a serene and picturesque atmosphere.
Within the shrine grounds stands a large maple tree, which turns a brilliant shade of crimson red in autumn.
Against the backdrop of the lush green bamboo, this maple tree becomes a stunning solitary red beacon, making it one of the most breathtaking seasonal sights in Kyoto.
If you’re visiting in autumn, be sure to witness this spectacular scenery.
Nonomiya Shrine holds a unique historical significance as a former purification site for imperial princesses and as the setting of one of the most poignant scenes in The Tale of Genji.
The shrine offers visitors a glimpse into the aristocratic culture and romantic traditions of the Heian period, making it a must-visit for literature and history enthusiasts alike.
Even if you are not familiar with The Tale of Genji, Nonomiya Shrine offers plenty of photogenic spots—from the ancient Kuroki Torii to the moss gardens and vivid autumn foliage. It is also one of Kyoto’s most renowned matchmaking shrines, attracting many visitors seeking love and romance.
Perhaps Nonomiya Daikokuten, the enshrined deity of love, understands Lady Rokujō’s tragic love story all too well—giving this place its extraordinary power to bless modern-day relationships.
If you’re visiting Arashiyama and Sagano, don’t miss the opportunity to step into this historical and mystical shrine right at the entrance of the Bamboo Forest Path. Knowing its 1,000-year-old love story will make your Kyoto experience even more meaningful.
Despite its compact size, Nonomiya Shrine is a hidden gem of Kyoto, offering visitors a profound connection to its rich past.
With its convenient location, visiting is easy—so be sure to stop by and experience its timeless charm.
