Matsuyama Castle: Walk Through Japan's Most Strategic Fortress and Experience 400 Years of Undefeated Defense

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Matsuyama Castle: Walk Through Japan's Most Strategic Fortress and Experience 400 Years of Undefeated Defense

To Matsuyama Castle: A 400-Year Undefeated Fortress!

Matsuyama Castle

Standing proudly in the heart of Matsuyama City, Ehime Prefecture, Matsuyama Castle offers an experience unlike any other.

It is the highest standing original castle keep in Japan and one of only two castles in the world with a connected-style keep, alongside Himeji Castle—making it exceptionally rare.

But the true charm of Matsuyama Castle lies beyond its rarity.

Built over 25 years by Kato Yoshiaki, a renowned warlord from the Battle of Sekigahara, this castle was meticulously designed as an impregnable fortress. Hidden gates to deceive enemies, strategically positioned gates for pincer attacks, towering 17-meter climbing stone walls, and the intricate “Nanamagari” winding path to the keep.

History attests to its strength: Matsuyama Castle has never fallen to enemies in over 400 years.

In this article, we’ll guide you through a walking route where you can experience the castle’s defense strategies firsthand. From the moment you arrive at the summit station via ropeway to the top floor of the connected keep overlooking Matsuyama city, let’s explore the castle from a warlord’s perspective!

Quickly Ascend to the Summit Area by Ropeway!

Matsuyama Castle sits atop a mountain, so we’ll head up via ropeway.

Matsuyama Castle Ropeway & Lift Base Station 'Shinonomeguchi'

Inside the Base Station Inside the Base Station
Which is faster: Ropeway or Lift?

The ropeway operates every 10 minutes, while the lift runs continuously, allowing immediate boarding.

However, the ropeway ride takes about 3 minutes, and the lift about 6 minutes. So if there’s more than a 3-minute wait for the ropeway, the lift may get you there faster.

Ropeway Boarding Area

The view from the ropeway is also stunning.

View from the Ropeway

Before you know it, you’ll arrive at the summit station ‘Chojaganaru’.

Plaza in front of Summit Station

Coin lockers are available near the ticket gates at the summit station. Since it’s about a 10-minute walk to the castle, we recommend storing your luggage here if you have a lot.

Coin Lockers

Mutsumian Shop in Front of the Summit Station

In front of the summit station is Mutsumian, a shop with a restaurant—perfect for a quick stop.

Mutsumian

At Mutsumian, you can enjoy traditional Japanese sweets like zenzai, matcha, warabi mochi, and mitarashi dango. Since the walk around Matsuyama Castle can be extensive, it’s a good idea to recharge here before or after your visit.

Menu Board

The shop features both souvenir sales and a restaurant.

Restaurant Restaurant Restaurant Souvenir Shop Souvenir Shop Souvenir Shop Churuchuru Mikan

From Summit Station to Honmaru Plaza: Experience the Castle’s Defense Strategy

Now, let’s head toward Matsuyama Castle.

The walk from the summit station to the main keep area, Honmaru Plaza, usually takes about 10 minutes. However, since there are many points of interest, allowing about 15 minutes is safer for your schedule.

Here’s the walking route to Honmaru Plaza:

Tour Route Map

Let’s get started!

Starting Point to Matsuyama Castle

17-Meter Tall Climbing Stone Wall

Climbing Stone Wall

Immediately, you’ll encounter one of Matsuyama Castle’s highlights—the Climbing Stone Wall, standing an impressive 17 meters tall.

Climbing Stone Wall

This “Climbing Stone Wall” is one of the largest in Japan.

It features elegant fan-shaped curves and defensive bends, primarily built with granite. From its initial construction around 1602 to the late Edo period, the stone masonry techniques evolved: older sections use rough, natural stones, while newer parts feature finely shaped stones meticulously stacked without gaps. Walking around the castle, you can compare stone masonry techniques from different eras—a rare and invaluable experience.

Climbing Stone Wall Climbing Stone Wall Climbing Stone Wall Turret atop the Stone Wall

Otemon Gate Ruins and Waiting Guardhouse Ruins

Next to the Climbing Stone Wall is a small plaza with the ruins of Otemon Gate and the Waiting Guardhouse.

Plaza beside the Stone Wall

Otemon Gate was a key gateway built during the castle’s construction (1596–1615), serving as the entrance to the second and third baileys. Historical records also refer to it as “Otani Ni-no-mon” or “Machi-ai Gomon”, but it was dismantled during the Meiji era.

The Waiting Guardhouse was established where two castle approach roads merged, and three guards were stationed here. It was a critical defensive and troop deployment point, with fortified walls featuring stone drop holes, gunports, and arrow slits.

Otemon Gate Ruins and Waiting Guardhouse Ruins Otemon Gate Ruins and Waiting Guardhouse Ruins

Continue along the path beside the stone wall.

Stone Wall and Path

Tonashimon Gate, Tsutsui Gate, and Kakushimon Gate

Next, you’ll see the defensive trio of Tonashimon Gate, Tsutsui Gate, and Kakushimon Gate.

Tonashimon Gate

Tonashimon Gate is a Koraimon-style gate leading to the Honmaru. As its name suggests, it is believed to have been built without doors originally. Constructed between 1624–1648, it was rebuilt in 1800. It was designated a National Treasure in 1935 and is now an Important Cultural Property.

Tonashimon Gate

Beyond this gate lie the Tsutsui Gate and the Kakushimon Gate—the castle’s most formidable defensive lines.

Tonashimon, Tsutsui, and Kakushimon Gates

Enemies would advance through Tonashimon toward Tsutsui Gate, only to be ambushed from behind by soldiers emerging from the hidden Kakushimon Gate—a clever defense tactic.

Defense Strategy Using Tonashimon, Tsutsui, and Kakushimon Gates

You can enjoy excellent views from this area as well.

View of Matsuyama City from atop the Stone Wall View of Matsuyama City from atop the Stone Wall

Proceed through the magnificent Tsutsui Gate.

Tsutsui Gate Tsutsui Gate Tsutsui Gate

Above the Tsutsui Gate are the Nishi-zoku Yagura and Higashi-zoku Yagura turrets. These flanking turrets, along with Kakushimon Gate, formed critical defense lines. Initially, only the western turret existed, and the eastern turret was later added. Although both were designated National Treasures in 1935, they were destroyed in 1949 and rebuilt in 1971.

Nishi-zoku Yagura Nishi-zoku Yagura

This is the Kakushimon Gate. It was designed for soldiers to emerge from and attack enemies approaching Tsutsui Gate from behind.

Kakushimon Gate

Above Kakushimon Gate stands the Kakushimon-zoku Yagura turret, featuring an irregular layout following the stone wall. Built during the castle’s original construction (1596–1615), it retains techniques from that era and was designated a National Treasure in 1935, now recognized as an Important Cultural Property.

Kakushimon-zoku Yagura

Beyond Tsutsui Gate, you’ll reach a small plaza.

Plaza Plaza

Passing through the Taikomon Gate will lead you to Honmaru Plaza.

Taikomon Gate

Taikomon Gate

The Taikomon Gate served as the main entrance to the Honmaru and formed the second line of defense along with the Tatsumi Yagura and Taiko Yagura turrets. Although it was destroyed in World War II, it was rebuilt in 1972. You can still see war scars on the surrounding stone walls.

Taikomon Gate

Once through this gate, you’ll reach Honmaru Plaza.

Uphill Beyond the Taikomon Gate

Honmaru Plaza

Honmaru Plaza

Honmaru Plaza houses the main keep and other defensive structures. There’s also a souvenir shop and restaurant here.

Honmaru Plaza

One of the best features is the breathtaking view of Matsuyama City below and the distant mountain ranges. The surrounding stone walls showcase Edo-period castle engineering, allowing you to enjoy a tranquil moment under the same sky once watched by the castle lords.

View from Honmaru Plaza View from Honmaru Plaza View from Honmaru Plaza View from Honmaru Plaza

Taiko Yagura

Taiko Yagura

The Taiko Yagura is an L-shaped, two-story turret located in Honmaru Plaza. Although it was destroyed during the war, it was faithfully reconstructed in 1973 using Japanese hemlock wood (Tsuga). This turret worked in coordination with other structures to form an essential defensive line, providing an up-close look at ingenious castle construction techniques.

Taiko Yagura Taiko Yagura Taiko Yagura Taiko Yagura Taiko Yagura

Taikomon Nishi-bei (West Wall)

Taikomon Nishi-bei

This approximately 24-meter-long wall was equipped with two stone drop holes and 21 loopholes (arrow and gun slits) for defense. It was destroyed during the war but reconstructed in 1990 using traditional wooden methods. Matsuyama Castle’s loopholes are square for guns and rectangular for arrows, reflecting the period’s battle innovations. This wall is a key part of Matsuyama Castle’s extensive restoration project and a must-see spot for experiencing Edo-period defensive systems.

Taikomon Nishi-bei Taikomon Nishi-bei

The Well

The Well

This well, about 44.2 meters deep, was built when a valley was filled during castle construction. It was used for drinking water until the pre-war era. The current well house was reconstructed in 1952, making it the first structure to be restored at Matsuyama Castle after the war.

The Well

Many legends surround this well, such as “it has no bottom”, “it has an escape tunnel to the main keep”, and “it contains buried treasure”. However, all these stories have been debunked. Still, it remains an important historic source of water, providing a glimpse into castle life in those days.

Bagu Yagura (Saddlery Turret)

Bagu Yagura

The Bagu Yagura, located on the western side of Honmaru Plaza, played a key role in monitoring and defending the area toward the second bailey in coordination with the Taiko Yagura. After being destroyed in the war, it was rebuilt in 1958—the only structure at Matsuyama Castle made of reinforced concrete.

Special foundation techniques were used during reconstruction to reduce stress on the stone walls. During the process, ancient masonry was discovered deep underground, hinting at unknown aspects of Matsuyama Castle’s history, making this turret a unique site where modern reconstruction and historical discovery coexist.

Bagu Yagura

To the Matsuyama Castle Keep!

Purchase your admission ticket at the entrance and explore the keep!

Ticket Booth Ticket Booth Matsuyama Castle Entrance

For the best photo of Matsuyama Castle, head to the entrance. The connected-style keep offers a layered, majestic view that’s perfect for photos.

Matsuyama Castle Matsuyama Castle Matsuyama Castle

Path to the Main Keep

Matsuyama Castle’s defenses are ironclad—it’s not easy to reach the keep. You’ll need to navigate the winding “Nanamagari” path.

Main Bailey Map

Passing through the first gate,

First Gate

then the second gate,

Second Gate

then the third gate,

Third Gate

and the Suginomon (Iron Reinforced Gate),

Suginomon

you’ll finally arrive at the plaza in front of the keep. It’s no easy feat—even for heavily armored samurai, the path would have been exhausting and congested, showcasing the defensive genius of Kato Yoshiaki.

Keep Plaza

The route and gates form a complex layout designed to sap the energy of invaders, as seen from above.

Complex Route

Now, let’s enter the main keep.

Entrance to the Keep Entrance to the Keep

Inside the Connected-Style Main Keep

The keep is compact compared to others, consisting of three stories above ground and one basement level (Layered Tower Style).

Being an original keep, it retains steep staircases—be careful while climbing! This steepness is part of the authentic castle experience.

Steep Stairs

Inside, exhibits showcase historical artifacts and documents chronologically. You’ll also find displays of spears, swords, and armor.

Exhibit of Spears and Swords Exhibit of Spears and Swords Exhibit of Armor Exhibit of Armor Exhibit of Armor Exhibit of Armor

Besides weaponry, there are many documents and explanations, allowing you to learn about the castle’s history as you explore.

Historical Exhibits and Explanations Historical Exhibits and Explanations Historical Exhibits and Explanations Historical Exhibits and Explanations Historical Exhibits and Explanations Historical Exhibits and Explanations Historical Exhibits and Explanations

The stairs connecting the main and auxiliary towers now have handrails for easier climbing.

Stairs Connecting the Towers

Small Keep

In front of the main keep is the small keep.

Inside the Small Keep

From the small keep, you can overlook the keep plaza—ideal for monitoring enemy advances.

Keep Plaza

The small keep also houses a bow and arrow used during the castle’s ridgepole-raising ceremony.

Bow and Arrow

This ceremony, marking the placement of the most important timber, prayed for construction safety and the building’s longevity. The bow and arrow, sacred ritual items, were believed to ward off evil.

Still preserved today, they embody the prayers and craftsmanship of the castle’s original builders and are a fascinating cultural artifact.

Bow and Arrow Bow and Arrow

From the small keep, you can also get a close-up view of the main keep—another great photo spot.

Main Keep

Panoramic View from the Top Floor of the Main Keep

You’ve now reached the top floor of the main keep.

Top Floor of Main Keep

The main keep has three above-ground stories and one basement level (Layered Tower Style). It rises about 20 meters from the Honmaru Plaza (21.3 meters including the shachihoko ornaments) and sits at an elevation of about 161 meters, making it the highest-standing original castle keep among Japan’s 12 surviving examples.

The panoramic views of Matsuyama City and the Seto Inland Sea are breathtaking, clearly illustrating why this strategic location was chosen by warlords. The views from Japan’s highest original keep are among the highlights of visiting Matsuyama Castle.

View from Top Floor View from Top Floor View from Top Floor View from Top Floor View from Top Floor

Relax with Ehime Sweets at the Jozanso Shop!

After enjoying the castle, take a break at the Jozanso Shop in Honmaru Plaza.

Jozanso Shop

It features a souvenir shop and a restaurant where you can enjoy local Ehime sweets.

Inside the Shop Inside the Shop Inside the Shop Inside the Shop

We recommend their specialty “Iyokan Soft-Serve Ice Cream”—refreshingly sweet with the gentle aroma of iyokan oranges.

Iyokan Soft-Serve Ice Cream

An Impregnable Fortress Proven by History

Construction of Matsuyama Castle began after the Battle of Sekigahara (1600), during the peaceful early Edo period. Though it was built as a warlord’s castle, by the time it was completed after a quarter-century, the age of warring had ended under the Tokugawa regime.

Thus, Matsuyama Castle is famous for its heavily defensive design, but it was never attacked in battle.

However, had it been completed during the Warring States period, there’s no doubt it would have been deemed impregnable.

The castle’s founder, Kato Yoshiaki, distinguished himself in major battles like the Battle of Shizugatake (1583), the Siege of Odawara (1590), the Korean invasions (1592–1598), and the Battle of Sekigahara (1600). He earned high praise from Toyotomi Hideyoshi and Tokugawa Ieyasu.

Built by such a seasoned warlord, Matsuyama Castle stands even after 400 years, allowing us to experience his strategic ingenuity firsthand—a rare opportunity indeed.

If you’d like to learn more about the connected-style keep, check out the following article:

Read more about Matsuyama Castle's Connected-Style Keep

Matsuyama Castle has many other highlights beyond the Honmaru Plaza, which you can explore here:

Read more about Highlights of Matsuyama Castle

There are only 12 surviving original castle keeps in Japan, and only Himeji Castle and Matsuyama Castle feature a connected-style keep.

Come and experience this extraordinary castle for yourself.

Matsuyama Castle
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