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Place the blade against a tomato. Draw it back gently, without applying pressure, and a paper-thin slice appears.
No crushing. No juice running out. The cells of the ingredient remain intact—this is the hallmark of a razor-sharp edge.
Professional chefs worldwide choose Japanese knives for this exceptional sharpness.
Japanese kitchen knives evolved from the same forging techniques used to create samurai swords (katana). The craft of hammering and folding layers of steel, honed by blacksmiths over centuries, lives on in modern kitchen blades.
This guide will walk you through the different types of Japanese knives, how to choose the right steel, and the proper techniques for sharpening and maintaining that legendary edge.
Japanese knives are designed for specific purposes. Here are the most common types.
Santoku Knife (santoku)
The name Santoku means three virtues, referring to its ability to handle meat, fish, and vegetables equally well. With a blade length of 165–180 mm (6.5–7 inches), it is the most popular all-purpose knife in Japanese households.
The gently curved blade works for both push-cutting and pull-cutting motions, making it an ideal first knife.
Gyuto (Chef’s Knife)
The Gyuto is an all-purpose knife inspired by Western chef’s knives. It has a longer blade (180–240 mm / 7–9.5 inches) and a sharper, more pointed tip than the Santoku.
Favored by professional cooks for slicing large cuts of meat, the Gyuto is ideal for those who want efficient cutting with a longer blade.
Nakiri (Vegetable Knife)
As the name suggests (nakiri means cutting greens), this knife is designed specifically for vegetables. Its rectangular blade and flat edge are perfect for shredding cabbage and slicing daikon into thin sheets.
Yanagiba (Sashimi Knife)
This knife is designed for slicing sashimi. Its long, willow-leaf-shaped blade glides through fish in a single pull, creating clean, glossy cuts.
The secret to those beautiful sashimi slices lies in the single-bevel (kataba) edge—more on this below.
Deba (Fish-Filleting Knife)
Built for breaking down whole fish, the Deba features a thick, heavy blade that can cut through fish heads and bones with ease.
From filleting to prep work, it is an essential tool for anyone who works with whole fish.
For your first Japanese knife, a Santoku or Gyuto is your best choice.
Both are versatile enough to handle meat, fish, and vegetables. For a second knife, consider a petty knife (80–150 mm / 3–6 inches)—perfect for peeling fruit and detailed work—and you will be equipped for almost any recipe.
| Knife Type | Purpose | Features | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Santoku | Meat, fish, vegetables | 165–180 mm blade, push and pull cutting | Beginners, home cooking |
| Gyuto | Meat, fish, vegetables | 180–240 mm blade, sharp tip | Serious cooks, meat dishes |
| Nakiri | Vegetables only | Rectangular blade, ideal for thin slices | Vegetable - focused cooking |
| Yanagiba | Sashimi | Long single - bevel blade, pull cutting | Achieving beautiful sashimi slices |
| Deba | Filleting fish | Thick, heavy blade, cuts through bone | Working with whole fish |
Knife blades are made from two main types of steel: stainless steel and carbon steel (hagane). Understanding their differences will help you choose the right material for your needs.
Advantages
Disadvantages
If you prefer low-maintenance knives or are new to Japanese cutlery, stainless steel is the way to go.
Advantages
Disadvantages
Unlike Western stainless steel knives, carbon steel knives will rust if not dried immediately after use. Keep a dry towel nearby during cooking and wipe the blade often. After cooking, wash and dry the knife thoroughly—leaving it wet for even a few minutes can cause rust to form.
For those who prioritize sharpness and enjoy caring for their tools, carbon steel is the ideal choice.
Damascus steel is famous for its beautiful wavy patterns, created by forging multiple layers of different steels together—sometimes 33 or 67 layers. Each knife has a unique pattern.
However, the pattern itself does not affect sharpness. What matters is the quality of the core steel at the center of the blade.
Damascus knives are a great choice if you value aesthetics, but if sharpness is your priority, check what type of core steel is used.
| Material | Rust Resistance | Sharpness | Maintenance | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stainless Steel | Resistant | Good | Easy | Beginners, convenience |
| Carbon Steel (Hagane) | Prone to rust | Extremely sharp | Regular care needed | Sharpness seekers, those who enjoy knife care |
| Damascus | Depends on core | Depends on core | Depends on core | Aesthetics - focused |
Japanese knives come in two edge styles: single-bevel (kataba) and double-bevel (ryoba). This distinction is unique to Japanese cutlery and rare in other countries.
Only one side of the blade is sharpened; the other side is nearly flat. Traditional Japanese knives like the Yanagiba, Deba, and Usuba use this design.
Characteristics
When cutting sashimi with a single-bevel Yanagiba, the slices come out smooth and glossy. This is because the single bevel separates the fish without crushing it.
Both sides of the blade are sharpened. Most modern all-purpose knives—Santoku, Gyuto, and Nakiri—use this structure.
Characteristics
For beginners, double-bevel knives are recommended. They are easier to handle and simpler to sharpen since both sides are ground equally.
| Edge Type | Sharpened Sides | Typical Knives | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| Single - Bevel | One side only | Yanagiba, Deba, Usuba | Beautiful cuts, handedness - specific |
| Double - Bevel | Both sides | Santoku, Gyuto, Nakiri | Versatile, ambidextrous |
Regular sharpening with a whetstone (toishi) is essential for maintaining your Japanese knife. With the right technique, anyone can sharpen a knife at home.
Whetstones are classified by grit number—the lower the number, the coarser the stone.
| Type | Grit | Purpose |
|---|---|---|
| Coarse Stone | #220–600 | Repairing chips and major damage |
| Medium Stone | #1000–3000 | Routine maintenance (most important) |
| Finishing Stone | #3000–6000 | Refining sharpness and polishing |
Tip for Beginners: A combination stone with #1000 and #3000 on each side is all you need for regular maintenance.
1. Soak the Whetstone
Submerge the stone in water for 10–20 minutes. It is ready when air bubbles stop rising. Keep the stone wet while sharpening—add water whenever it starts to dry.
2. Stabilize the Stone
Place a damp towel under the stone to prevent slipping. If you have a stone holder, use that instead.
3. Set the Angle
Position the knife at about a 45-degree angle to the stone. Then raise the spine 10–15 degrees above the surface.
Angle Tip: Stack two coins (such as US quarters or UK 10p coins) under the spine of the blade—this gives approximately a 15-degree angle.
4. Sharpen
Work from the heel (ago) to the tip (kissaki), dividing the blade into 3–4 sections. Apply light pressure on the push stroke and release on the pull stroke.
Move each section back and forth 20–30 times.
5. Check for the Burr (Kaeri)
Run your finger perpendicular to the edge on the opposite side of the blade. If you feel a rough, raised edge, that is the burr (kaeri).
The burr indicates that metal has been pushed to the other side—proof that you have sharpened down to the edge. Continue until you feel the burr along the entire blade.
6. Sharpen the Other Side and Remove the Burr
Flip the knife and repeat. For double-bevel knives, use equal strokes on both sides. For single-bevel, only give the back side a few light passes.
Finally, run the edge lightly along newspaper or a cloth to remove any remaining burr.
A burr is a thin ridge of metal that forms during sharpening.
When you grind the blade on a whetstone, metal is pushed to the opposite side of the edge. This is the burr. Its presence means you have sharpened all the way to the cutting edge.
To check for a burr, slide your finger across the edge—not along it—to avoid cutting yourself.
If a whetstone seems intimidating, you might wonder about pull-through sharpeners. Here is how they compare.
Sharpeners only realign the edge and, over time, can thin the blade and shorten the knife’s life.
Best Practice: Use a sharpener for quick touch-ups and sharpen with a whetstone once or twice a month. This extends the life of your knife.
For high-end Japanese knives—especially carbon steel—avoid sharpeners, as they can damage delicate edges. Stick to whetstones.
| Feature | Sharpener | Whetstone |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of Use | Simple | Requires technique |
| Time | A few minutes | 30 minutes to 1 hour |
| Edge Longevity | Short - lived | Long - lasting |
| Blade Wear | Can damage over time | Extends knife life when done correctly |
| Best Use | Quick daily touch - ups | Monthly full sharpening |
Proper care and storage will keep your knife performing for years.
1. Wash Immediately
Rinse and wash your knife right after use. Residue and moisture can cause rust—even on stainless steel. Be especially careful after cutting salty or acidic foods like lemons and tomatoes.
2. Use Mild Dish Soap
Clean with a soft sponge and neutral detergent. Avoid abrasive scrubbers or harsh cleaners, which can damage the blade and handle.
3. Dry Completely
Wipe the knife thoroughly with a dry cloth. If air-drying, wipe off excess water first and stand the knife upright.
Avoid the Dishwasher: High heat and strong detergents degrade the blade, and wooden handles can crack or warp. Hand-wash unless the knife is specifically labeled dishwasher-safe.
Knife Block
Good airflow and separated slots prevent blades from touching—one of the safest storage options.
Magnetic Holder
A wall-mounted strip that saves space. Exposed blades dry quickly and stay hygienic.
Blade Guard
A sheath that protects the edge when storing in a drawer, preventing contact with other utensils.
Carbon steel knives rust quickly without immediate care. If you spot rust, remove it promptly with a rust eraser or similar product. Left untreated, rust spreads and pits the blade.
For long-term storage, apply a thin layer of oil (camellia oil or vegetable oil) and wrap the knife in newspaper.
Here is a quick recap on choosing a Japanese knife:
In Japan, there is a concept called “ichisho mono”—a tool for life. Choosing a quality knife and caring for it over the years embodies the spirit of Japanese craftsmanship.
Find the knife that is perfect for you, and make every moment in the kitchen a richer experience.
